Tokyo | A guide to eating & exploring Japan
Back in November, I spent two weeks in Japan with my husband and some pals and it quickly became one of those trips that reset my standards and might have ruined all other trips for me. Japan is a place that rewards moving a little slower, especially in cities so vast you’ll never come close to seeing it all. The temptation to cram your day is real, but the magic lives in the quieter moments: side streets, small rituals, pauses you didn’t plan for. We were there during peak fall foliage and I don’t think I’ve ever stopped so often just to stare at trees. Japan was showing off with her fiery maples tucked between buildings, leaves floating through temple paths, entire parks glowing in shades of rust and gold. I knew I would love it there, but I didn’t expect to be quite so taken by it.
We started and ended our trip in Tokyo, totaling seven days, and we barely scratched the surface of what she had to offer. Before this trip, the largest city I’d spent time in was New York, which is roughly half the size in footprint and home to millions fewer people, so I went in knowing Tokyo would never be something we could cover in a short week.
Instead, we focused our time on a handful of neighborhoods (Shibuya, Shinjuku, Minato City, and Shimokitazawa) and let our days unfold from there. The city is remarkably clean, quiet, and well thought out. The food, truly all of it, was excellent. Meals, coffee, cocktails, convenience store snacks. I was already plotting my next bite before the table was cleared, which is always a good sign of a great vacation in my books.
For the first leg of our trip, we stayed at the Andaz Tokyo Toranomon Hills, where our room looked straight out to Tokyo Tower. Mornings were very slow and ritual-driven: tea in our room, then Japanese omelets on the 42nd floor with the city stretching out below us. It was absolutely breathtaking and we even had a peek at Mt. Fuji one morning. This hotel struck a rare balance of feeling extremely special without being stiff and the rooftop bar was an easy choice for excellent nightcaps and views that never got old. After exploring Kyoto, Osaka, and Hakone, we came back to Tokyo for the last chunk of trip and opted to stay a little more in the action over in Shibuya at the Aoyama Grand Hotel, which felt warmer and more lived-in, like a place we could actually settle into for awhile. It’s centrally located, close to a lively shopping district and we were lucky enough to get a room overlooking Yoyogi Park (which is gorgeous and you simply must spend a morning wandering through if you find yourself in Tokyo).
Each morning after leaving the hotel, our first stop was obviously coffee, and let me just say: the coffee scene alone is a reason to visit Japan. Thoughtful sourcing, precise brewing and beautifully designed spaces with each cup being somehow better than the one before. Shopping followed a similar philosophy and became a highlight of the trip. I could have spent (many more) hours taking in just the stunning designs of the window displays of the luxury shops in Ginza but I was on a mission for two things: Muji for cozy staples and all the kitchenwares I could securely cram into my suitcase. So up to Kappabashi and little nooks around Tokyo we went. Cutting boards, ceramics, knives, special cooking utensils like a slotted spoon that’s perfect for scooping solids out of liquids (like pickled things, capers, garlic in oil, etc.) and new knives were on the wishlist. I went a little hard at Kama-asa and Hitohira but all my new treasures have already made themselves at home in my regular tool rotation, so… worth it.
In between all the coffee and shopping, we wandered parks like Kiyosumi Gardens, Ueno Park and Yoyogi Park, ate our way through Tsukiji Market, tried as many highly rated cocktail bars as we could and spent a day at DisneySea eating every popcorn flavor we could find. There was so much to see and do that we had filled our days but in such a charming, gentle way that we both agreed we could have stayed for another week or two and weren’t ready to come home, which never happens to my homebody self after two weeks away.
Here you’ll find my curated guide to where I ate, drank, sipped coffee, and shopped in Tokyo, pulled together from two weeks of walking, tasting, and falling in love with yet another city. Restaurants worth building a day around, cocktail bars that felt relaxed but intentional, coffee shops we sought out each morning, and stores where time (and luggage space) disappeared without warning. These are the places that made the city feel generous and livable, whether you’re visiting for the first time or planning a return trip. Consider this less a definitive Tokyo travel guide and more a well-edited snapshot of what worked for us, and what I’d seek out again without hesitation.
Our favorite bites & sips in Tokyo
FamilyMart, Lawsons & 7/11 | Konbini $
Japanese convenience stores are on another level entirely. America could never. They’re everywhere, they’re efficient, they’re open all night, and everything is actually good (not going to lie, I thought people were being dramatic about it online until I saw for myself). We popped into them constantly for casual bites and snacks like Famichiki (crispy fried chicken) from FamilyMart, crispy potatoes from Lawson’s, and the egg sandos, onigiri, ramen cups and smoothies from 7/11 kept us going between meals. Not a novelty, not a backup plan, truly a genuine part of daily eating in Japan.
Hagino | Tonkatsu $
Tucked away near Tokyo Tower in Minato City, Hagino was a happy accident after striking out at another spot… which honestly made it even better. This is classic, no-notes tonkatsu done exactly right: thin, crispy pork cutlets, potato katsu, and more rice and shredded cabbage than feels reasonable (we giggled about it for a solid hour). Enjoyed with pickled cucumbers and cold beers, the whole meal felt unfussy but perfect in a very Japanese way. One of those places I wish was down the block from home.
Lanterne | Izakaya $$
If you know me, you know I have a soft spot for a small-plates, wine-bar-adjacent situation and Lanterne hit that nerve perfectly. Known for their chicken karaage (bite-sized marinated fried chicken) and creative izakaya style dishes, I obviously had to check it out for myself. We got a reservation for the chef counter and let things unfold while taking it all in. We worked our way through stir-fried lotus root and konnyaku, crispy gyoza, yellowtail carpaccio and tuna cheek meunière, all while sipping shōchū and soda. The yellowtail carpaccio with sudachi citrus and scallion was easily a top-two bite of the entire trip. Relaxed, confident cooking, exactly my speed.
Memento Mori | Cacao Craft Cocktail Bar $
Slightly hidden inside Toranomon Hills Business Tower, Memento Mori is a moody, cacao-focused cocktail bar that felt like it could exist in Portland but somehow made even more sense in Tokyo. The space is dark and dramatic, filled with dried florals and taxidermy, and the cocktails center on every part of the cacao pod. Bartender Shuzo Nagumo is deeply passionate about both chocolate and spirits and it shows. We were pleasantly surprised to learn they were collaborating with Dandelion Chocolate (a specialty chocolatier in San Francisco) and Echigo Yakuso Distillery on a limited-edition cacao gin. One drink was even served inside an actual cacao pod. Creative, thoughtful, and genuinely memorable.
Oreryū Shio Ramen Jingūmae | Ramen $
Tucked just off the main shopping stretch in Harajuku sits my favorite single dish of the trip. This ramen shop isn’t fancy, and I think it’s technically a chain, but don’t let that stop you. You order from a ticket machine out front, get shuffled inside, and are handed a truly enormous bowl of ramen that somehow manages to feel balanced. The ramen I ordered came with perfectly chewy noodles, jammy eggs, chili oil, slices of chashu, the creamiest pork bone broth, and perfectly crispy chicken karaage on top. There’s bonus toppings for you on the table and trust me when I say, do not skip the red and gold allium pepper shaker on the table. Whatever’s in there (white and black pepper, garlic powder, onion powder) is pure magic and I’ve been trying to track down a bottle of it ever since.
Sobamae Yamato | Soba $$
A regular at the cookbook shop I work at laughed when I told him we had only five days in Tokyo, then generously handed over a short list of his favorites. This soba spot was one of them. Located inside the beautifully designed Azabudai Hills complex near our first hotel, Sobamae Yamato proved that soba really does hit different in Japan. We ordered the Kotteri Tsuke Soba (a plate of cold noodles served with a rich pork bone and black pepper dipping broth) and a Tenkake set (noodles in hot broth and tempura vegetables). Clean tasting but still deeply flavorful and quietly impressive. Would return, even just to stare at their gorgeous green tiled walls a little bit longer.
Stabler Shimokitazawa | Sandwiches $
Shimokitazawa neighborhood is known for vintage shopping, great coffee, cool bars and it’s also home to this delightful sandwich spot. We split one egg sando and one steak sando, which felt like the correct move. The steak was juicy, the egg creamy and while they do offer a combo sandwich, I was glad to experience each on its own. Messy, indulgent, and worth the wait. Plus the owner was incredibly sweet so bonus points for him alone.
Tsukiji Market | Food market $
Listen, I love a farmers market and I love a food hall. I don’t care how many people tell me something is touristy; if it’s filled with food stalls, I’m in. Tsukiji Market delivered, even if we paid a bit extra for the convenience of trying everything in one place. It was day one of the trip and I wanted a crash course in Tokyo eating, so we went sent it. Charred tuna steaks, tamagoyaki, dashi tastings, a detour to FamilyMart for my first Famichiki, then regrouped with more friends for another pass around, fatty tuna nigiri, wagyu skewers and mochi to finish. It’s crowded and not somewhere I’d linger long, but it’s worth popping through, grabbing a few bites, and moving on with your day.
Coffee, treats & little shops
About Life Coffee Brewers — there’s a few locations but the cafe tucked off the main haunt in Shibuya is too cute to pass. Owned by Onibus Coffee, they serve up great coffee and delicious snacks like the banana bread with espresso butter
Coffee Aoi — this dark and moody coffee shop is hidden in a Minato City alley, looks like an intimate cocktail bar and serves up fantastic espresso drinks and pour overs. Don’t skip the cheesecake.
Glitch Coffee — my coffee obsessed husband declared his cup here to be “the greatest coffee of my entire life” so do with that what you will, but mentally prepare for a long wait. They have three locations in Tokyo, plus two locations in Osaka and Nagoya
Post Coffee — delicious pour overs, drip coffee and cappuccinos near some of the best vintage shopping in Shimokitazawa
Tabi to Coffee — great pour overs near Kappabashi with yummy toasties
The Matcha Tokyo — I don’t know if this was just a “touristy” spot but their matcha soft-serve was fire and a perfect pick me up while shopping through Harajuku
Hitohira — curated knife shop with a wide variety of Japanese and Western style knives and really lovely staff
Kama-asa — hands down the best kitchenware shop over on Kappabashi street and home of the best cutting board
The Harvest General Store — lovely ceramics and dishes with a cute sidewalk sale selection
